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I went again the other night and I got a same-day resy - and a nice table - for 9:45 p.m. Ryan: Robert, you know as well as I do that the best views of Manhattan are from Brooklyn!

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It had these wraparound windows that looked toward Manhattan as if the diners were supposed to look at the skyline and wonder if they shouldn’t be eating there instead of in Williamsburg. The greeter pushes the “up” button on the outside of the elevator, then reaches into the cab and pushes the floor button, and jumps aside as the door closes, in a delicate ballet.

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The clerk at the desk looks at you as if, “What the hell are you doing here?” And after you cross-examine him, he tells you that behind a screen around the corner there will magically appear a greeter who will then give you the keys to the city, or at least tell you how to get into the restaurant. You go down these steps into this subterranean, kind of scary hotel lobby. I figured it’d be a shoo-in since it was pouring that night. So a companion and I went when it opened at 5 p.m. Robert: I’d heard from my colleague and friend Ryan that he’d waited an hour and a half to get into Laser Wolf as a walk-in, and to me, screw that: I’m not waiting an hour and a half for anything.

What follows is a conversation between the two about their recent meals. The set-menu format is simple: Diners pay for a skewer ($43 to $52), and that price includes a course of vegan mezze with pita and hummus, as well as a brown-sugar soft serve dessert.Įater NY’s two critics, Robert Sietsema and Ryan Sutton, are both close followers of the city’s skewer scene, but as it happens they had profound disagreements about Laser Wolf. This isn’t so much about composed, creative plates as it is about mezze and charcoal-grilled meat. This should not surprise: The 130-seat restaurant is located atop the Hoxton hotel in Williamsburg and boasts panoramic views of the Manhattan skyline.įans of Solomonov’s famed Zahav should note that Laser Wolf is a very different venue. The open-fire skewer spot, named after a wealthy butcher from “Fiddler on the Roof” - it bears no relation to the Adult Swim cartoon about an English-speaking canine with a destructive light weapon - has been a tough reservation since its May opening. Philadelphia’s Michael Solomonov, one of the country’s most renowned Israeli chefs, once ran a quick-service hummus spot in Manhattan, but Laser Wolf in Brooklyn marks his full-scale, let’s-have-a-night-out-in-New-York debut.